6) Determine Hair’s Porosity, Density, & Texture PRO TIP: Use Malibu’s Crytal Gel for 100% removal of build up, medications, and hard water minerals prior to your color service. Medications for the heart and thyroid are just some of the medication types that can completely alter your color results. You should also be inquiring if your client is currently taking any medications. This will give great insight when formulating, and help you understand what your client expects from their color service. We suggest having them bring in a few photos of their desired color, and having them point out what they do and do not like about each picture. More than likely, you and your client’s idea of a ‘honey blonde’ or ‘red-brown’ will vary. 5) Consultation is KeyĪs a professional Hair Stylist, it’s your job to direct and steer the consultation with your client.Ĭlient’s may think they are in the driver’s seat, but you’re the instructor with the emergency peddle – pump the breaks when necessary to avoid a hairy disaster!įor example, if your client’s hair is in poor condition and would not be able to withstand a perm or extreme lightening service, then don’t be afraid to speak up.Īlso, be sure you and your client are on the same page when it comes to color selection. For example, if hair is 75% grey, you may want to consider lowering your developer to color ratio – allowing for more color than developer, or dropping down a level for ample pigment weight. In addition, knowing the ratio of white or grey hair to pigmented hair is necessary when formulating. Since grey hair still contains some pigment, it should be formulated differently than white hair. Grey hair is actually an optical illusion, it contains both the color of pigmented hair and white hair. When dealing with white hair it necessary to add the missing anchor pigments to give the color you’re depositing something to hold on to. If you mix the colors white and red, what would be the result? Pink! White hair is completely absent of pigment. Often, not knowing the difference between white and grey hair can result in muddy color results or lack of proper pigment load. Grey hair still contains some pigment whereas, white hair color does not. Grey and white hair are not the same, and should not be treated as such. Whether you are lifting or depositing, knowing which tones are present in your client’s natural level will help you make a better color choice. If your client’s level is somewhere in the middle (levels 5-6), more orange pigments are present in the hair, a combination of red and yellow. Dark hair (levels 1-4), contain high concentration of red pigment whereas, blonde hair (levels 7-10) consists of mainly golden pigments. Within each of those levels are the 2 underlying color pigments: eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (red-brown), which control the shade of the hair. Level 1 being the darkest and Level 10 being the lightest color. If you aren’t aware of your color line’s predominant pigments, then you will not be able to accurately use the Color Wheel to create your client’s desired color. For example, one line’s ‘N-series’ or ‘neutrals’ could fall on the warmer side of the Color Wheel whereas, another line could have a tonal value at the blue-violet base. When formulating your client’s perfect hair color, it’s important to know the different background pigments present in your color line. 2) Know Predominant TonesĮvery color line has various predominant tones (background pigment found in each hair color tube or bottle). For example, if you’re looking to eliminate unwanted warmth (red), selecting a cooler tone (green) will effectively neutralize the previous color. Knowing which of these colors enhance and cancel out one another is vital for formulating the correct hair color. Tertiary Colors are created by combining a primary color with the secondary color beside it on the Color Wheel. The Color Wheel is comprised of 3 Primary Colors: Red, Yellow, Blue, and 3 Secondary Colors: Green, Violet, Orange. Understanding the relationship between colors is essential when formulating your client’s ideal hair color. Follow our Hair Color Formula Guide to create your client’s best hair color yet! Knowing these tips will ensure absolute color success.
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